.jpg "High above Les Diablerets") Got a week to spare and looking for ideas? Then check out this fantastic five day via ferrata extravaganza in Switzerland.
Say 'via ferrata' and most people think 'ooh shit' or 'Italy', or more specifically the 'Dolomites'. However, now that climbing big mountains with a wire rope appendage looks like overtaking singing Agadoo as an overseas pass time, Alpine countries can't get their Hilti drills out fast enough to bolt up new routes.
By our reckoning there's currently over 50 via ferrata in Switzerland with new routes springing up by the hour, apparently. A few are easy, most would be graded as 'experienced ferraterists or climbers only' and at the top end there's a few ball breakers where you'll need a high level of fitness, technique, upper body strength and feel comfortable hanging out over a 1000ft of fresh air. What I'm saying here is, the common denominator of Swiss via ferrata is a wow factor par excellence when it comes to exposing yourself in the land of the cuckoo clock. So, what are we waiting for, let's go.
The Plot
The following is an itinerary based on using a low cost airline into Geneva, hiring a car and spending five days bopping in the hills. All the routes are great fun in fantastic surrounding and if you're packing along a friend who's not comfortable with via ferrata there's plenty of alternative less exposed hiking paths.
Route 1: Tour d'Ai
Location: Leysin
Nearest Airport: Geneva
Difficulty: Verging on a sports climb
What's the crack?: Pick up the hire car in Geneva airport and take the direct route around the north shore of Lake Geneva towards Montreux or skip into France and power up the spectacular Chamonix Valley and over into Martigny. Either way you're about a 45 minute drive from Leysin the kick off point for the Tour d'Ai via ferrata.
The route takes a line up the huge cliffs that form the high point of the ridge behind the town and a swift cable car ride will whisk you to within a 30 minute walk of the start. The Tour d'Ai is a demanding 'French' style via ferrata, which means, it's superbly equipped with wire rope and there's artificial metal handholds and footholds where required.
As with modern French style routes, the wire rope tends to be looser than you'd expect if you're used to Italian via ferrata. This construction techniques encourages climbers to use the handrails or natural holds for hauling themselves up the rock face as opposed to the rope itself. The theory behind this means that you have three independent points of contact and safety at all times; handholds, footholds and the wire rope.
The initial section, although steep, is easy enough and followed by pleasant airy traverse with great views towards the higher mountains on the Swiss/French border and Lake Geneva in the opposite direction. But don't be fooled by this relatively gentle introduction as from now on it's one way only; skywards.
There are no great technical problems or unprotected moves but what follows is physically and mentally demanding as the exposure is dramatic and the ascent is unrelenting. Having taken a very fit and strong via ferrata virgin up this route his comments ranged from 'the most awesome experience in my life' to 'my arms were almost burnt out on the overhang'. And that captures the essence of the Tour d'Ai. It is doable by the inexperienced but only if you've a head for heights, are physically fit and can handle you own body weight. Even so I'd definitely recommend you have someone on hand who knows what they're doing. Experienced ferraterists with good technique are in for a treat.
From the summit cross the views take in the Matterhorn, Eiger, Mont Blanc, Lake Geneva and lots more. There's good reasoning behind the local assertion that this spot is 'the balcony of the Alps'. The descent is a fine walk off which could be classed as an easy grade one via ferrata, in fact just the sort of route for those who've taken one look at the Tour d'Ai and thought...gulp.
NB. We passed through Leysin during May 2005 and were told about a new via ferrata that was due to be completed and opened that summer. It's within walking distance of the town and contains the sort of difficulties you're likely to meet on the bigger ones up high. Local mountain guides constructed it and they'll be on hand to offer instruction. Check out the tourist office for up to date news.
For accommodation options in Leysin check out http://www.leysin.ch/
Route 2: Les Diablerets
Location: Les Diablerets
Difficulty: Count on burning biceps
What's the crack?: A fifteen minute drive up the valley from Leysin and you're in the village of Les Diablerets and in sight of the next route Tete au Chamois. High above the Col de Pillion to the east of the village a glacier can be seen poking it's snout towards a prominent cliff face with a cable car station, and this is the start of the route.
The Tete au Chamois is one of the few via ferrata that traverses as opposed to ascends a face with no overall height gain. Turning left out of the lift the trail follows an easy descent trail before the wire rope kicks in. The first section is trouble free and there's an escape route before things turn serious. And serious they turn. This is a very demanding climb with extreme exposure and overhanging sections throughout but the protection is constant and you're never without a hold. There's a short, exposed wooden bridge (or plank) that's a great spot for setting up a shot showing the precarious and severe nature of this route.
If you're experienced and fit you'll love it; if you're not, take the escape route.
If you can knock this 830m route off in a couple of hours then my advice is to go straight back down to the Col in the cable car walk across the road and head for the Cascade via ferrata. Bizarrely, the guy from the tourist office rated this route as 'easy'. Having climbed it I can only assume there was something lost in the translation. The Cascade is not easy, it's a bloody tough sports climb, with some very difficult and seriously awkward moves for anyone under 6ft tall. The route ends by passing behind a waterfall where there is a 'death slide' from the back of the falls to the finish line. This is a tough technical route with a number of escape routes, even abseiling points, so if you're looking to do your first sports climb ferrata this is one to check out.
Route 3: De Rougemont
Location: Rougemont
Difficulty: Very hard or easy peasy
What's the crack?: After a night spent supping away the excellent local 'Point Noir' drive back up and over the Col Pilon to Gstard and on into the picturesque village of Rougemont. As you approach the village your eyes will be popping out straining to take in the mountain on the left hand side of the village. If you know what Tryfan in Snowdonia looks like, you'll have no doubts as to which 'hill' I'm taking about; it's a classic sharks fin of steep rock and the summit of which is where the three routes De Rougemont head for.
Rougemont is an old Swiss village of the sort where you'd expect Heidi to be hanging out in one of the well preserved wooden houses, so it's well worth a stroll through the streets checking out the skilful carpentry of olde. But don't spend too long mooching, there are some great routes up in them hills.
There are three via ferrata up above Rougemont and all are reached within minutes of the upper cable car station, so there's no real walk ins. The first route is approximately 500m long and as easy as a via ferrata gets making it an excellent route for any hill walker with excessive first time nerves. The local tourist office promotes the route as suitable for anyone aged between 7 to 77 year old and we'd agree with the sentiment. This route is also the descent for the other two 'harder' climbs.
Route 2 is about 400m in length and a little more exposed and technical than route one but once again it's well protected and a very easy via ferrata, especially by Swiss standards.
Route 3 is a different matter, it's a tough, technical very exposed 400m ascent and an absolutely fantastic climb on par with Leysin and Les Diablerets. Not a beginner's route but you just might fancy a crack after taking on 1 and 2.
For accommodation options in Rougemont check out http://www.rougemont.ch/
Route 4: Rotstock
Location: Grindlewald
Difficulty: No big probs
What's the crack?: It takes a couple of hours to drive from Rougemont to Grindlewald and a lovely ride it is too. From Gstard to Interlaken you travel through fantastic mountain scenery and pass village straight off chocolate box labels. Once you hit Interlaken and head up the valley towards Grindlewald the scenery takes on a far more brutal appearance with the appearance of the three towering summits of the Jungfrau, Monch and Eiger.
Having spent three days in Grindlewald the year previous and not once seen the Eiger due to poor visibility the scale of the magnificent and notorious north and north east faces which rise straight out of the edge of town alpine meadows is jaw dropping. Where as most peaks (for example Mont Blanc when viewed from Chamonix) rise in stages, the Eiger is to Grindlewald what the Empire Estate Building is to Manhatten – you crank your neck back and look straight up.
And the Rotstock route presents a great opportunity to get a flavour of the north wall and at the same time walk in the footsteps of Clint Eastwood in you own version of 'The Eiger Sanction'.
The Rotstock is a subsidiary peak of the Eiger and the via ferrata to the summit (of Rotstock) is reached by taking the famous Jungfrau railway out of Grindlewald to the Eigerglatscher Station and heading out on the 'Eiger Trail' path. There are no real technical problems on this route and we reckon it's fairly easy going as long as you've a good head for heights.
The proximity to the north wall and all round spectacular views make this our favourite route in the Grindlewald Valley, but if you've spare time you could also check out the tougher Schwarzhorn via ferrata which tops out at 2928m to the other side of the valley.
For accommodation options in Grindlewald check out http://www.grindelwald.com/
 Route 5: Mont Saleve
Location: Geneva
Difficulty: Whatever you're looking for?
What's the crack?: Okay so we're on the road back to Geneva for a day out on the prominent ridge on the outskirts of the city. Mont Saleve is the nearest climbing and outdoor adventure venue to Geneva and tends to be chocka with hikers, climbers, scramblers, mountain bikers and paragiders.
But don't let that put you off, there's plenty of room for everyone, the place has a friendly buzz and the locals are happy to show off their knowledge of routes and facilities. As Mon Saleve is so close to Geneva airport – about a 15 minute drive, if you know where you're going – it also makes a great weekend locations if you can pick up a cheap flight.
The high ridge to the south of Lake Geneva is unmissable; to locate the Mont Saleve section just head for the rockface with swarms of paragliders circling above and you're there. There are a couple of via ferrata, one short and easy the other a very tough, challenging sports climb that's been graded as a 'black'. What that means is you'll be doing lots of tough moves in very exposed situations; perfect, if that's what you're looking for. If you're up for a spot of climbing or bouldering, there are routes through the grades and they're all bolted.
For accommodation options in Geneva check out http://www.geneve-tourisme.ch/
Click Here for Guides in the Geneva area.
Check out Adventure Travel's Via Ferrata in Switzerland database here
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