 Got the climbing gene? Then prepare for it to rage as Pat Littlejohn takes you up his top five climbs in Switzerland.
I've spent 25 summers climbing in the Swiss Alps, taking on extreme lines such as the Eiger Nordwand (North Face of the Eiger) and the West Ridge of Salbitshijen, along with countless classic routes in my role as a mountain guide at the International School of Mountaineering.
When approached by Adventure Travel to write about my top five climbs in Switzerland my initial thought was that there were enough 'top' climbs to last several life-times and fill a couple of years worth of magazines. However, after giving the matter some thought, I've chosen routes that are both aspirational and hugely enjoyable, whether taken on with a guide or independently. I've climbed them all several times and never tire of their magic – in fact, just writing this feature has got me aching to get back up there.
The Mountain: The Weissmies (4023m)
Route: Ascent by the South Ridge, descent by the West flank & Trift Glacier
Location: Saas Vally, nearest town Saas Grund
Difficulty: PD (Peu Difficile)
How Long: Normally 2 days, easy day to Almageller hut then a 7-8hr day to make the traverse.
What's it like: A beautiful, 'friendly' peak in the eastern Swiss Valais, the perfect choice for your first Alpine Four-thousander. Nothing technically difficult but you need the full range of alpine skills – use of the rope on a crevassed glacier, competence with ice axe and crampons and knowledge of belaying and rope work for rock climbing.
The trip starts with a hut walk (4-5 hours, with an inn half way for refreshments) then the big day begins with a classic early morning 'alpine start' walking with head torches to the Zwishbergenpass below the ridge. A snowfield is climbed to reach the ridge, where scrambling and short pitches on lovely rock take you to an airy snow crest leading to the summit. The descent, winding through huge crevasses on the Trift glacier, is just as memorable, then from Hohsaas you can save your knees and ride a cable car back down to the valley.
The Mountain: Dent Blanche (4358m)
Route: South Ridge
Difficulty: AD
How Long: 10-12hrs on summit day, 3 days total
What's it like: This superb 3-day expedition offers Alpine ridge climbing at its best on one of the greatest peaks of the Swiss Valais. The Dent Blanche is a gigantic pyramid with sharp ridges at all four points of the compass. The South Ridge is the most amenable, mostly mixed rock and snow with a difficult section of rock climbing over the 'Grand Gendarme'.
It's a stiff 5-6 hour pull up to the little Dent Blanche hut, situated high on the mountain just below the ridge. Next day you quickly gain the ridge and are rewarded by a magnificent view of the Matterhorn at sunrise. Soon the Grand Gendarme (tower) looms above and looks rather intimidating but the holds are positive and after two pitches you're on your way up the wonderful crest above which is interesting all the way to the summit. Descent takes as long as ascent, and most people are glad to rest another night at the friendly hut before trekking down to the valley next day.
The Mountains: The Monte Rosa – Breithorn Chain (highest point 4634m)
Location: Zermatt
Route: West-to-East traverse of the peaks along the chain.
Difficulty: PD to AD depending on options taken
How long: 4-5 days depending on the number of summits attempted
What's it like: Fantastic multi-day trip across Switzerland's highest range, staying high with breathtaking views all week and taking in lots of 4000m summits. You also get to sleep in the highest hut in the Alps – the Margherita hut at 4550m.
Without climbing above PD standard you can bag up to ten 4000m summits including the Breithorn, Pollux, Castor, and several of the Monte Rosa tops. People competent at AD can take in the magnificent traverse of Liskamm, a snowy knife-edge with 2 3000ft drops either side, and also traverse the Dufourspitze, Monte Rosa's highest point. This is a week spent 'on top of the world' amid giant snow peaks and glacier.
The Mountains: Grand Mirior d'Argentine
Route: The Y-Crack, the original and classic route.
Difficulty: Grade V- (UK Mild Very Severe)
How Long: 3-5 hours of ascent from the start of the climbing, 1-2 hours of descend.
What's it like: The Mirior is a massive sheet of limestone 400m high giving probably the best 'easy' rock climb in Switzerland. The climbing is sustained at V Diff/Serve with two harder pitches, the rock is brilliant all the way and the sense of scale once on the main slab is truly exhilarating.
Although the route is now 'equipped' with protection and belay bolts, a nose for route-finding is essential – errors are rarely drastic but some parties end up having a very long day! From the top of the slab an exposed ridge leads on to a great little summit – the Cheval Blanc – which is a perfect place to photograph the route and any other parties still climbing it. On the walk off a stop at the tiny hamlet of Solalex for a beer or home-made lemonade rounds off the day nicely.
The Mountain: The Eiger (3970m)
Location: Bernese Oberland, nearest town Grindlewald
Route: Traverse via the Mittellegi and South Ridges.
Difficulty: D (Difficile)
How long: 2 days, 9-10hrs for summit climb and traverse to Jungfraujoch.
What's it like: The Eiger is special. Its awesome presence dominates the town of Grindelwald and the village of Kleine Scheidegg, where tourists aim their cameras and telescopes at the famous Nordwand (north face). To gain the summit by any route is a worthy achievement, and nowadays most ascents are made by climbing the Mittellegi Ridge and descending the South Ridge. It is a trip for experienced Alpinists only.
The outing begins by taking the Jungfraujoch railway as far as the Eismeer glacier. You pop out of a steel door into a chaotic world of seracs and icefalls and traverse to the Mittellegi hut, perched on the rim of the north face. The climbing on the ridge is exposed, over sharp crests and towers, finally traversing an ice ridge above the Nordwand itself to the wonderful summit, face-to-face with the Monch and the Jungfrau. The 'descent' is a fascinating route in its own right involving sustained ridge climbing with dizzy exposure, then snowfields leading around to the Monschjoch hut and onwards to the fleshpots of Jungfraujoch, highest station of the famous railway. Most people treat themselves to food and beverages here before snuggling in with the tourists for the train ride back down to Grindlewald.
How Difficult?
It's customary to use French grades when climbing in the Alps, but what do they mean?
F Facile Easy
PD Peu difficile Not very hard
AD Assez difficile Fairly hard
D Difficile Hard
TD Tres difficile Very hard
ED Extremement difficile Extremely hard
Who's writing?
Pat is Director of the International School of Mountaineering which offers courses in every aspect of Alpine climbing. If you would like to join a guided group to climb any of the above route you will find the relevant course details at www.alpin-ism.com or by calling 01766 890441.
Route Course Title
Weissmies Traverse Summits and Skills 4000m
Briethorn – Monte Rosa Traverse Classic 4000'ers – Monte Rosa Chain
Grand Mirior d'Argentine Technical Alpinism
Dent Blanche South Ridge Technical Alpine Ascents
Mittellegi Ridge Eiger Ascent
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