 Pack ‘n’ Go - the features that count and those you can live without.
Hardcore factions of the outdoor and travel brigade set off into the wilderness with nothing more than a knotted hanky tied to a stick and a spare pair of red socks. However, if you’re the slight bit interested in returning to tell the tale, it could be worth investing in a comfy rucksack and packing along a few essentials.
In the latest issue of Adventure Travel magazine (Issue 74 March/April 2008) we check out 60 of the best mid sized (36L - 55L) and expedition sized (65L plus) packs on the market. What follows below is a run down of all the features you’re ever likely to find on a pack and what they mean for you.
What's on the Back?
Back System
Manufacturers tend to make a big song and (marketing) dance about ventilation features that claim to keep your back dry. We're not that bothered and have yet to find any system that performs as well as the claim. The fact is, if you are carrying a fully loaded pack uphill you're going to end up with a hot and sweaty back, period.
The most important feature on the back system is the frame, which in most cases will be sandwiched between the harness and main compartment. These 'internal' frame structures (usually made of lightweight plastic sheets, alloy bars or fibreglass/carbon poles) perform the critical function of giving the pack shape, supporting the weight and transferring the load onto the hips. Choosing the correct frame length to fit your back is the most important decision you'll make.
Most packs come with back size adjustment, but, there is only so much adjustment you can do before what’s really needed is a longer or shorter frame length.
Shoulder Straps
Novices make the mistake of assuming that the shoulder straps are the vital load carrying feature. They are not, the hip belt is the main weight bearing tool. Too much weight channelled through the shoulders will make on trail life uncomfortable and painful. The straps should take a minimum of weight and be looked upon as a stability aid first and foremost.
Check that the shoulder straps are not too narrow and don't dig into the neck, or too wide as to slip off the shoulders. A chest strap will help keep them secure and stop them sliding open, but not everyone will find a closed chest strap comfortable in use - better to go for shoulder straps that fit your build. The most comfortable straps are wider and well padded with a firm rather than soft padding. Narrow straps tend to dig into the shoulders under load even on small packs and too soft padding just flattens out in use.
Hip Belts
The difference between a good fitting pack with a supportive hip belt and a ill-fitting pack that throws weight on the shoulders is huge. A quality hip belt that fits and transfers the load onto the hips is a vital feature and worth spending time getting right. The key is to find a well-padded belt that sits comfortably above the hipbone spreading the load evenly with no pressure points or hot spots. A belt that slips down or rides too high will be no friend of yours on trail. Hip belt pockets are useful for storing close to hand bits and pieces.
Chest Straps
These straps fasten across the chest, securing the shoulder straps and aiding stability. In use some people find them uncomfortable, especially those of either sex with large chests. Most packs come with adjustable chest straps that can be height positioned for maximum comfort.
Weight
First off, we recommend that you should always put comfort and fit ahead of saving a few ounces on weight. We know from painful experience that a stripped down, lightweight pack that compromises on comfort will not be your best buddy on trail. More features mean more weight and it's up to you to decide what you really need. Just remember fit and comfort are the real kings of the hill, though weight, obviously, does play a big part in that.
What's on the Front?
Lid
You tend to get a 'floating' lid on big sacks and fixed lids on smaller packs. The term 'floating' refers to the adjustable nature of the lid, which extends to accommodate larger loads and main compartment bellows. Most packs feature useful and easy to access zipped outer and inner pockets on the lid. Go for a pack with at least one user friendly lid pocket.
Side/Front Pockets
These are convenient pockets for stashing close at hand gear such as water bottles, hats, gloves, snacks etc. However, fully packed out side pockets tend to restrict what can be secured under the side compression straps.
Ice Axe/Trekking Pole Loops
Axe loops are essential for stashing your winter tools on treks above the snow line and for mountaineering expeditions. We reckon that Velcro fasteners are more user friendly than fiddly buckles which can freeze up. Trekking pole loops are becoming more common to coincide with the increase in pole use.
Waterproof Liners and Covers
Most rucksacks are made from waterproof material or have been treated with a water repellent coating. However the seams are not taped and all packs will wet out in a serious downpour or all-day drizzle. Many packs now come with waterproof covers as standard. If yours doesn't it's worth splashing out a couple of quid to buy one. Some packs also come with waterproof inner liners.
Wand Pockets
These are small narrow open pockets (or sleeves) positioned at the base of the sides. Ideal for stopping stuff like tent poles escaping compression strap bindings or for storing water bottles for ease of access.
Haul Loops
These are heavy duty grab handles positioned at the base of the lid. Originally a tough, secure feature for 'hauling' packs up climbing routes though now more commonly used as a general lifting handle for everyday use i.e. grabbing your pack off the airport carousel.
Daisy Chains/Elasticated bungy cord
Daisy chains are strips of webbing sewn onto the pack to form a number of attachment loops and along with a bungy cord are useful feature for lashing all kinds of stuff to the outside of the pack
Accessory Loops
Material or plastic loops usually found on the lid and bottom and sometimes on the front of the pack. Always come in useful for securing stuff to the outside of the rucksack.
Top Tension Straps
Webbing straps connecting the shoulder harness to the upper section of the pack. When used correctly they pull the pack closer to the body improving stability, balance, and load transfer to the hip belt.
Side Tension Straps
Strips connecting the waist belt to the lower part of the pack. Tweaking the tension makes the pack more stable and helps in weight transfer to the hips.
Side Compression Straps
Most commonly used for securing stuff like sleeping mats, tent poles, trekking poles etc. to the side of the pack. However the main function is to help compress the internal load to aid stability and pull in the loose fabric of a part-full pack.
What's on the Inside?
Rope Compression Straps
Only usually found on dedicated climbing packs, these straps are fitted between the lid and main compartment and are used for securing ropes (and other stuff) - and they can be used for compressing the pack load from above.
Main Storage Compartment
There's still no industry standard when it comes to measuring the internal carrying capacity of a rucksack so one manufacturer's 75L is no guarantee that it sizes up to others. Confusing - yes. Annoying - Certainly. But that's the way it is I'm afraid. Most main compartments (on expedition size packs) come with a top bellows extension that allows for expansion and greater load carrying, but when fully packed out a sack will become unstable and top-heavy even with the most careful of packing - better to go for a bigger pack in the first place. Some packs have internal dividers, though we're not that impressed and reckon they just add unnecessary weight.
Lower Compartment
A smaller base compartment is pretty much standard on all big packs, with the exception of out and out climbing packs which tend to stick with a single large main bag. Makes packing and organising gear easier; the natural spot for storing sleeping bags and spare clothes.
Hydration Pouch
It's becoming more common for manufacturers to include an inner pouch for stashing hydration bladders, in fact it’s becoming difficult to find a pack without one of these. Useful if you use them, but not essential.
Comfort and Fit
We can’t stress enough how important it is to buy a pack that fits. When it comes to the crunch, getting the right fit is more important than any combination of fancy features
Most rucksacks offer a degree of back length adjustment, but it's the overall frame length that contributes most to comfort; there is a limit to the degree of fine-tuning that can be applied whilst still maintaining maximum comfort. Your best bet is to make a shortlist of sacks that fit your criteria and price range then pop along to a specialist shop to try them out. Most stores will let you load a pack for a fit test - usually they'll have a couple of climbing ropes on hand - and show you how to correctly tweak all the tension straps to improve fit and stability.
A good fitting sack will rest comfortably and securely just above the hipbone. If the back length is right then the upper straps will sit on the shoulders and attach to the pack roughly four to five centimetres below the shoulder line. Pulling on the top and side tensioning straps will stabilise the pack and pull it closer to your body, channelling more weight through the hip belt. Check that the shoulder straps are well spaced and do not cut into your neck or are too wide and slip off the shoulders. If the fit is good, it'll feel like you're strapped into a comfortable pilot's seat. If the fit is bad - well, you'll just know it's bad.
Check out a few brands; you'll be amazed at the variation of back systems and the difference of the fit, and you might find an even better match. It is possible to fine tune the pack more by bending the frame to match the contours of your back, though we suspect you might have a problem finding a shop that'll let you do this before buying.
Okay, that's the details sorted but if you're still not sure what type of pack you need for your adventure then check out this feature.
 |
