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.jpg "if Moyles can climb it so can you - Lilimanjaro")
So you want to climb Kili? Tsch, who doesn’t? Before you plan your trip read our essential guide to getting the most out of the mountain, and making sure it gets the most out of you.
Standing on the top of Kilimanjaro - a magnificent snow-capped volcano that’s the apex of Africa - feels pretty damn good. Along with Everest and Aconcagua, it’s one of the hallowed seven summits, but it’s an achievable challenge for any moderately fit person.
It’s also currently enjoying the afterglow of the ‘Cheryl Cole Effect’. According to Responsibletravel.com, public interest in climbing Kilimanjaro has soared to 12 times previous levels since Cheryl, Chris Moyles and co took on the might of the mountain in the name of Comic Relief.
There are dozens, if not hundreds, of tour companies offering a bewildering array of treks up Kili. So how do you pick one?
The most obvious things is just to pick the cheapest, but read on to find out why it’s so important to choose you trip based on the route you want to take, the amount of time you want to spend on the mountain and the ethics of your chosen tour company.
Pick the right trip and you’ll have the best possible chance of getting to the top, safe and happy, without a splitting headache caused by the altitude, or a nagging sense of guilt about the way the porters have been treated.
Pick your route
There are six or seven possible routes up Kili – all with their advantages and disadvantages. We’ve put together some basic information about them to help you choose the one which is right for you.
Marangu Route 5/6 days
Known rather disparagingly as the coca-cola route, this is the most popular route on the mountain because it is the easiest, the shortest, the most luxurious (huts with beds and cold drinks) and the five day option is also the cheapest. But of course there’s a downside. It’s not as scenic as some routes, it can get extremely busy, and it has most accidents due to high traffic and some poor operators.
Machame Route 6/7 days
Also referred to as the whiskey Route, Machame is varied and scenic, with a gradual ascent. The day walks are longer and steeper on the Marangu route so it’s highly recommended to take a seven day trip. Its increasing popularity means that it can get very busy.
Rongai route 6/8 days
Approaching the mountain from the north-east, the Rongai is the second easiest route on the mountain after Marangu route. It’s not the prettiest but it does pass through true wilderness areas for days before joining the Marangu route at Kibo camp.
Umbwe Route 5/6 days
A beautiful but extremely direct route which is very steep and offers little time for acclimatisation. It’s used only rarely by people who are confident of being able to cope with the altitude, often because they have just completed other treks in the area.
Shira Route 7/9 days
Great for people who want to spend a lot of time on the mountain. The scenery is wonderful, the trekking is quite strenuous, and accommodation is in caves and tents. The route starts quite high, which is a disadvantage for acclimatisation.
Lemosho Route 7/9 days
An improved version of the Shira route, starting lower down the mountain to give the body a chance to acclimatize. Considered the most beautiful route on Kilimanjaro, Lemosho is highly recommended but is normally one of the most expensive.
Take your sweet time
‘Kilimanjaro,’ according to altitude medicine expert Dr Jeremy Windsor, ‘is perhaps one of the most dangerous mountains in the world. Despite reliable weather and straightforward access, illness and injury are commonplace. Of the 40,000 visitors Kili attracts each year, between 50 and 75% turn back before reaching the summit.’
One of the major reasons for people turning around is the altitude. Climbing Kili might not require lots of technical gear and training but it is a whopping 5,895m above sea level.
The early symptoms of acute mountain sickness are headaches, nausea, dizziness and weakness, and a serious case can lead to death. It is crucial to communicate any symptoms to people around you, and if your symptoms progress the only treatment is to descend.
As any experienced trekker will tell you, the way to avoid altitude sickness is to take your time and give your body a chance to adjust to the lower levels of oxygen in the air. Travelling to almost 6,000m can’t be rushed.
The Kilimanjaro National Park charges a fee for every day that you spend on the mountain - it goes towards maintaining trails, protecting wildlife and subsidising other less popular parks around Tanzania. But it does have one very bad effect: it gives tour companies trying to compete on price an incentive to cut their trips short.
The majority of Kilimanjaro climbs are attempted in a five or six day window resulting in an overall success rate in the region of 40%. On a seven or eight day trek, the success rate more or less doubles. Make sure you spend at least five nights on the mountain before attempting the summit – or make sure you take the maximum, not the minimum amount of days as indicated on the route summaries. An alternative to taking a longer itinerary is to do an acclimatisation trek nearby on a cheaper peak, like Mt Meru or Mt Kenya.
Power to the porters
There’s a myth that has taken over the trekking world. A myth of a superhuman race of people, who can carry huge loads, at high altitudes and low temperatures wearing nothing but flip flops and a tracksuit. These people are porters, and this myth – the second you stop to think about it – is a complete load of crap.
It turns out that porters are actually quite similar to paying climbers. They get tired, they get injured and they suffer from altitude sickness and hypothermia.
All too often the porters of Kili are impoverished Tanzanians who depend on this labour-intensive employment in order to feed themselves and their families. Many climb Kilimanjaro without adequate clothing, footwear, or equipment, and in September 2002 three porters died of hypothermia in a late season storm.
That’s not to say that you shouldn’t use local porters – of course you should. They are the heart and soul of the experience; their local knowledge is invaluable, and their presence gives you the chance to connect with the culture of the country you’re visiting.
But more importantly by using local porters you guarantee that your tourist cash is benefiting the local people. Tour companies that seem unusually cheap are likely to be cutting costs by paying their porters a pittance or dangerously overloading them.
So what should you do? Before you book your trip ask the tour operator a few questions – do you have a policy on porters’ rights? Do your porters have insurance? Where will they sleep and will they eat the same food as the climbers?
Once on the mountain make sure your porters are not overloaded, that they have adequate clothing and equipment. If you see anything that makes you uncomfortable then make it clear to your tour company that it is not acceptable and also consider reporting it to Tourism Concern (www.tourismconcern.org.uk) on your return. And just to state the obvious - don’t take unnecessary stuff up the mountain and be sure to tip generously.
For a much fuller list of recommendations, as well as a list of partner companies that treat their porters with the respect they deserve visit the website of The Kilimanjaro Porters Assistance Project (www.kiliporters.org). You can also find a range of approved Kilimanjaro climbs, on a variety of routes on www.responsibletravel.com.
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