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Monte Albano

Posted By
Alun
Difficulty
  • Grade 5
Location
Mori, Trentino, Italy (Nearest Town)
Ascent
200 meters ascent from the nearest roadhead
Summit Height
500 meters
Guide Time
2 Hours
Hits
1256
Rate this listing
4 votes
Favoured:
2

Okay, first things first, if there’s a more technically demanding route in the Dolomites than this little beast ascending Monte Albano then point me there, as I’ve not done it yet. Essentially this route is a sports climb (in via ferrata terms); it’s steep, very exposed, you need good fitness and strength and it’s a fantastic adventure. And, as it’s at a low elevation you can climb it just about all year round.

Park your car up in the village of Mori and head for the church overlooking the town. From the church it’s a short walk through the woods to the start of the route. Just a quick word about the woods – it can get very wet and muddy and with the start of the route being on steep, unprotected slippery as glass limestone take some time to clean your footwear or you could end up flat on your back within the first couple of steps of the climb. I knowso because I doneso.

As mentioned the first rock step (about 5m high) on this route is unprotected. This is not uncommon policy on the most difficult routes and is like this for a reason; if you don’t fancy having a go at it, then you’ll not be happy on the rest of the route either. It is an easy climb but the rock is very polished and slippery, so it needs extra care.

Once above the first step the protection is good and it needs to be because there are no easy sections. In fact this is one of the very few routes where they have named the ‘pitches’ or sections and 1st up is the Via dell Edera which is steep, physically demanding and a sign of what’s to come. At the top of this pitch you’ll also find the one and only escape route.

Next up comes a fantastic traverse (Traversata del Guto) where there’s the occasional foot placement but basically you hold onto the wire rope and smear your footwear on the cliff face for grip. Once again, it’s very exposed, but a great line.

From the end of the traverse it’s a steep climb up the section known as the Camino delle Gemelle which is well protected and you’re never short of a climbing aid or hold but if you’re not in top condition you’ll find this section brings out the sweat.

The next ‘pitch’ traverses left (Traversata deghli Angelli) before leading on to a ‘walking’ section which leads onto a steep pillar (camino del Cobra) and then to, what I reckon, is the highlight of the route. The Passagio dei Dedri is a left traverse which is very exposed and offers the chance to take one of those ‘out there’ photos to impress the folks back home. Just before the route takes off vertical for the final section you’ll find the visitor book bolted onto the cliff face where the ledge is wide enough for you to stop and write the obligatory ‘wow what a route’ type message.

Last up comes the Parte del Chiado, which provides a tough vertical challenge with a couple of tricky moves, difficult enough to catch a few people out – on the two occasions I’ve done this route I’ve come across weaker climbers having problems here.

The route finishes at a bench, where you can relax and listen to those huffing and puffing up the final section.

For the descent you can take the left hand path and walk down or turn right and climb down on a far easier ferrata than you ascended.

It’s worth repeating that whilst this is a fantastic route it is at the top end of the ferocious ferrata scale and quite a few climbers have found they’ve bitten off more than they can chew on this route. Do not attempt Monte Albano unless you have personal experience of climbing difficult via ferrata (with ease) or you’re with a competent, more experienced climbing partner.

Reviews (1)
byPete, May 28, 2009
A harder and perhaps more enjoyable route allround is the VF Rino Pisetta (5C) at Sarche
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